How to Measure Your TV and Space For a TV Stand
By Veiko Kallas, co-founder of JALG. Originally published: . Updated: .
To measure for a TV stand, start with your TV’s actual width, height and depth, including the bezel, and note the distance between its feet if it has separate legs. Then check the usable wall and floor area where the stand will sit, factoring in nearby furniture, walkways, viewing distance and power outlets. Don’t rely on the advertised screen size: a “55-inch TV” refers to the diagonal, not the TV’s actual width.
Three numbers matter when you're sizing up a TV for a stand: width, height, and depth. The one printed on the box, the diagonal, isn't any of them.
A television's advertised size is measured corner to corner across the screen.
Nothing about a stand cares about that measurement; a stand needs to know how wide the TV actually is, how tall, and how far it sticks out from the wall.
This guide covers exactly how to get those three numbers right, as well as how to measure the room around your TV before choosing a stand. Before you start, you'll need: a tape measure, your TV's model number if you don't have the specifications to hand, and two minutes.
What does TV size actually mean?
The number in "55-inch TV" is a diagonal measurement, corner to corner across the screen. It doesn't tell you the television's overall width, which is what a stand needs.
If you want to confirm your TV’s advertised screen size, measure diagonally across the visible screen, from corner to corner, without including the bezel. Once you know that number, move on to the TV’s actual width, height and depth, which are the measurements you’ll use to check whether a stand will fit.
How do I convert TV size to actual width and height?
Most TVs use a 16:9 aspect ratio, so multiply the diagonal by about 0.872 to estimate the screen width. The television's total physical width will be slightly different depending on its bezel and design. A 65-inch screen, for example, works out to about 57 inches (145 cm) wide.
The multiplier works in either unit, so if your TV's diagonal is listed in centimetres rather than inches, the same 0.872 applies directly, no conversion needed first.
| TV size | Approx. screen width | Approx. screen height |
|---|---|---|
| 43″ | ~38″ (97 cm) | ~21″ (53 cm) |
| 50″ | ~44″ (112 cm) | ~25″ (64 cm) |
| 55″ | ~48″ (122 cm) | ~27″ (69 cm) |
| 65″ | ~57″ (145 cm) | ~32″ (81 cm) |
| 75″ | ~66″ (168 cm) | ~37″ (94 cm) |
| 77″ | ~67″ (170 cm) | ~38″ (97 cm) |
| 85″ | ~74″ (188 cm) | ~42″ (106 cm) |
It's an approximation, not a guarantee; bezel thickness and panel design vary between manufacturers even at the same screen size, so treat it as a solid estimate rather than gospel if you don't have the TV in front of you yet. A screen size calculator will do the arithmetic for you if you'd rather not do it by hand.
As an example: our XL TV stands are built for screens up to 77 inches, sized around the actual width and weight of TVs in that range rather than the diagonal figure on the box.
For a freestanding floor TV stand like JALG, the stand itself does not need to be wider than the TV, because the TV is supported by the stand’s mounting structure rather than sitting on a conventional cabinet top.
How do I measure my TV's width, height and depth?
You'll need a tape measure and about two minutes.
- Width: far left edge of the frame to the far right edge, bezel included.
- Height: bottom edge to the top, bezel included.
- Depth: the very front of the TV to the very back, excluding any stand or wall mount attached to it.
- Base or feet spacing: if your TV sits on two feet rather than a centre pedestal, measure the distance between the outer edges of the feet, not the screen width. This is the number that actually determines whether a narrower stand can still hold it safely.
We've designed enough stands now to know it's rarely the big number that trips people up; it's almost always the depth, or the feet.
A television measured correctly for width but forgotten on depth still ends up looking wrong once it's in the room, sitting a centimetre or two proud of the cabinet front, or crowding a soundbar it was never given room for.
The width feels like the obvious measurement because it's the one you can eyeball; the other three only show up as a problem once the delivery's already arrived.
Depth matters most if you're fitting the TV into an enclosed unit rather than sitting it on an open stand; get it wrong, and the doors won't close, or the TV sticks out further than the cabinet's front edge.
How does this affect the stand size I need?
TV stands often list the maximum TV size they'll accommodate, but that number alone doesn't tell you whether the stand will physically work with your television.
Before you shop, measure the space itself too, not just the TV.
Check the width of the wall section where the stand will actually sit, and leave clearance either side for walking past comfortably if it's anywhere near a doorway or a busy path through the room. A stand can be exactly the right size for the television and still be the wrong size for the wall.
To turn these measurements into an actual recommendation, our guide to choosing the right TV stand covers safety spacing, style and storage needs, including the sizing table. If there are children or pets in the house, our TV stand safety guide is worth a look too.
How should room layout affect your TV stand measurements?
Measuring the TV is only half the job. Before choosing a stand, measure the part of the room where the whole setup will actually live.
Start with the usable wall width, rather than the full wall from corner to corner. Doors, radiators, windows, shelving and furniture can all reduce the space available to a TV stand. If the stand is close to a doorway or main walking route, leave enough clearance for people to pass without the furniture feeling intrusive.
Then look at the room from your usual seating position. Note the distance between the sofa and TV, where the centre of the screen will sit relative to your seated eye level, and whether windows or lamps are likely to cause glare. These measurements can affect both the position and height of the stand.
Also check what sits immediately around the TV. Allow space for a soundbar, speakers, consoles and cable connections, and locate nearby power outlets before deciding exactly where the stand will go.
For an awkward or compact room, it can help to mark the proposed stand dimensions on the floor with masking tape. You can then walk around it, open nearby doors and drawers, and check the view from the sofa before committing to the size.
Placement and corner stands
Viewing distance, eye-level height, and glare all affect where a TV stand should go, including for viewers who watch from bed or from a standing position at a bar. For height specifically, our optimal TV mounting height guide goes into more depth.
If you're fitting a corner TV stand, there's one extra measurement worth taking that a straight-fronted stand doesn't need: how far the unit extends along each wall from the corner itself, not just its front-facing width.
Corner units are often listed with a diagram showing this on the product page, worth checking against your own wall measurement before ordering rather than after.
Measuring for a wall-mounted or floating stand
Everything above assumes a floor-standing stand. Wall-mounted and floating units need two extra checks before you buy anything.
First, find solid fixing points behind where the bracket will go, studs or masonry, not just plasterboard. The mounting bracket needs something actually to hold onto, and stud spacing doesn't always line up neatly with every bracket on the market.
Second, check your TV's VESA mounting pattern, the spacing between the four screw holes on the back panel, against the bracket's own spec. It's usually printed in the TV's manual or on the box; if you don't have either, the model number will turn it up in a quick search. Our VESA compatibility page has the standard patterns if you want to check yours against a JALG stand's brackets specifically.
Mistakes to avoid when measuring
- Measuring the diagonal instead of the actual width. Covered throughout this guide, but it's the single most common measuring mistake, and the source of most of the others.
- Forgetting the feet or base. A television's screen width and its actual footprint on a shelf are two different numbers if it sits on two feet rather than a centre pedestal.
- Skipping depth entirely. Width gets measured because it's the obvious one; depth gets forgotten because it doesn't affect how the TV looks in the shop.
- Measuring the TV and stopping there. The wall or floor space matters just as much; a TV measured perfectly can still end up with a stand that doesn't fit the room it's going in.
- Not checking where the power outlet is. An easy one to fix in advance with an extension lead, and an easy one to discover the hard way on delivery day.
You've got the numbers, now what?
That's everything a stand actually needs to know about your television, and it's worth writing them down somewhere you'll actually find again; a note on your phone works fine, rather than trying to recall them once you're standing in front of a shelf full of options.
These numbers don't stop being useful once you leave this page either. Bring them along if you're comparing stands anywhere else, and check them against a product's actual listed dimensions, not the diagonal size shown in the photo.
A quick measuring checklist
| What to check | Why it matters | How to get it right |
|---|---|---|
| TV width, height and depth | The diagonal size on the box tells you nothing about the actual dimensions a stand needs to fit | Tape measure, edge to edge including the bezel; front to back for depth, excluding any stand already attached |
| Base or feet spacing | The TV's feet determine the minimum support area needed on the stand, while the TV's overall width helps determine the stand's ideal overall width | Measure between the outer edges of the feet, if your TV doesn't use a centre pedestal |
| Available wall space | A stand can be exactly the right size for the TV and still be the wrong size for the wall | Measure the width of the wall section where the stand will sit, plus clearance either side |
| Stand width vs TV width | A little extra width on either side usually creates a more balanced appearance, but the exact amount is a design preference rather than a universal safety rule | As an aesthetic rule of thumb, consider a stand around 10–15 cm (4–6 inches) wider than the TV overall, while always following the TV and stand manufacturers' support and weight requirements |
| Weight capacity | Large TVs are heavier than they look; an under-rated stand risks sagging or tipping over time | Check the manufacturer's rated capacity against your TV's actual weight, not just its price tier |
| VESA compatibility | Worth confirming even if you're not wall-mounting today; plans change | Match the stand's mounting pattern to your TV's spec |
| Cable management and airflow | Poor airflow behind a closed stand can overheat equipment; poor cable management just looks messy | Check for a genuine gap or cutout at the back, not just open space underneath |
| Material and style | The right choice depends on the room, not just the television | Match finish and style to the room you actually have |
Once you've got them, choosing the right TV stand is where those numbers turn into an actual decision: size, height, material and style all covered in one place.
Ready to see what fits?
Browse the Core Collection, Limited Edition or Custom Archive with your measurements to hand, they all feature both regular and XL TV stands.
Frequently asked questions
How do I measure the diagonal size of my TV?
Measure from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner of the screen, ignoring the bezel or any surrounding frame.
Why is it important to measure the width, height, and depth of my TV?
The diagonal size on the box doesn't tell you the TV's actual width, height or depth. Those are the measurements you need to check whether a stand will physically fit the television.
All three are needed to know whether a stand or entertainment unit will actually fit it, without unwanted overhang or an obvious fit problem.
How tall should a TV stand be?
The centre of your screen should sit at, or just below, eye level when seated; measure your own seated eye height and subtract half your TV's height to get the figure for your setup. Our guide to choosing the right TV stand walks through a worked example.
How much extra space should I allow around my TV on the stand?
There isn't one mandatory amount of extra width for every setup. As an aesthetic rule of thumb, a stand around 10–15 cm (4–6 inches) wider than the TV overall can create a balanced look, giving roughly 5–7.5 cm (2–3 inches) of visible space on each side. For safety and support, however, always check that the TV's base or feet fit fully within the support area and that the stand meets the manufacturer's weight requirements.
Note: For a freestanding floor TV stand like JALG, the stand itself does not need to be wider than the TV, because the TV is supported by the stand’s mounting structure rather than sitting on a conventional cabinet top.
What should I consider when choosing a TV stand for a small space?
Look for a stand sized for your space that still has enough shelving or drawers to keep things tidy, rather than sacrificing storage entirely for a smaller footprint.
Why is cable management important in a TV stand?
Good cable management keeps cords and cables organised behind the scenes, reducing clutter and keeping the whole setup looking intentional rather than accidental.
How deep should a TV stand be?
A TV stand should be deep enough to support the television's feet or base completely while leaving sufficient space for cables, ventilation and any connected equipment. There isn't one standard depth that suits every TV and room, so compare the stand's listed depth with your TV's actual footprint and the available space before buying.
